The gears to wind it seems to be jammed or something. The strap is made of some sort of leather, I cannot make it out.
The gold tone is wearing off. This one is relatively hard to find. Expect condition to be cosmetically Flawed and inoperable. The back casing opens up like a pocket watch to reveal the innards. All in all, this is still lovely and if the right person fixes it, it will be made to shine once again. I'm open to looking at offers.